Welcome to our Perfume Glossary, a reference tool presenting the technical terminology used in the field of bespoke perfumery. This glossary lists and defines the specialized expressions involved in the creation process of a personalized fragrance.
Its purpose is to clarify the fundamental concepts, methods, and components used by professionals in the sector. The definitions provide factual and precise explanations of the technical elements necessary to understand professional vocabulary, thus making the specialized aspects of bespoke perfume creation more accessible.
Absolute : A blend of fragrant molecules obtained from a natural raw material, mainly through maceration or enfleurage.
Cooling / Frosting (Glacage) : The process of lowering the perfume’s temperature below 5°C (sometimes close to 0°C) to precipitate waxes and resins. Ensures a clear and stable perfume.
Distillation — Hydrodistillation : A method where raw materials are heated in water so that volatile compounds evaporate with steam, then condense into hydrosol and essential oil, which naturally separate.
Eau de Cologne : VOC concentration of 4–6%. Fresh and light, largely built on citrus and aromatic notes. Originated in Germany in 1792.
Eau de Parfum : Concentration of 8–20%. The heart notes are most prominent.
Eau de Toilette : Concentration of 3–10%. Top notes are the most perceptible.
Enfleurage — Cold : Fresh flowers are placed on fat-coated frames. Flowers are regularly replaced until saturation of the fat — a long and delicate process.
Enfleurage — Hot (Maceration) : Raw materials are immersed in a solvent at ambient temperature for extended periods. The process can be repeated to increase saturation.
Essential Oils : Volatile fragrant molecules mainly obtained through steam distillation. Lighter and more subtle in scent compared to absolutes.
Filtration : A process in which the perfume is filtered to remove solidified impurities, ensuring a clear and translucent liquid.
Gas Chromatography (GC) : Analytical technique to separate, identify, and quantify volatile components in a mixture. Can be paired with olfactometry for sensory evaluation.
Headspace : A technique capturing and analyzing odor molecules released by flowers, objects, or environments that cannot be directly extracted. Allows perfumers to recreate their scent profile.
Isolated Molecule : Single purified compound, either naturally sourced or synthesized in a lab. Some do not exist in nature (e.g., modern musks, ethyl maltol).
Maceration (Perfume Aging) : Rest period (several weeks to approx. two months) allowing all ingredients to harmonize and stabilize within the composition.
Olfactory Pyramid : Structure describing how a perfume evolves:
- Top notes: first perception (15–30 min)
- Heart notes: core personality (4–6 h)
- Base notes: longest-lasting (days)
Orthonasal Olfaction : Odor perception via direct inhalation through the nose.
Perfume (Extrait) : Concentration of 15–30%. Rich in base notes, deepest and most long-lasting version.
Perfumer’s Organ : Professional furniture organizing raw materials so perfumers can compose using notes and accords in an intuitive manner.
Retronasal Olfaction : Odor perception that occurs during tasting, when aromatic molecules travel from the mouth to the nose through the pharynx.
Sillage : The scent trail a perfume leaves in its wearer’s wake.
Supercritical CO₂ Extraction : A green, closed-loop extraction method using CO₂ in a supercritical state — gentle on delicate raw materials and leaves zero solvent residue.
Trigeminal Nerve : Sensory nerve responsible for sensations like coldness, heat, and tingling. Mint, chili, and smoke stimulate it — giving physical sensation to an odor.
Volatile Organic Compound (VOC) : Chemical substance with high vapor pressure at room temperature, enabling quick evaporation. They contain carbon and often have low boiling points.
